Hair Type
Most guys don’t realize that there are many different types of hair. Determining your actual hair type can be a massive game changer, like helping you choose products that will make your hair look and feel the way you want it to. It also ensures that what you’re choosing for your hair will be effective, prevent damage, and save you a couple bucks by buying quality stuff from the get-go (no, you can’t just borrow your roommate’s gel). In addition to determining your hair texture, there are also several other factors though like your hair’s porosity and scalp moisture which all determine your hair type. If this sounds overwhelming, don’t worry - below is everything you need to know about determining your hair type and what that means for your hair care routine.
Above: Andre Walker Hair Typing System
1. Hair Texture
Hair texture refers to the natural shape or pattern of your strands. Leave your hair free of products and let it air dry the next time you take a shower. If it dries straight without a bend or curl, then your hair is straight (or type 1). If it dries with a slight curve or “S” shape, then it’s type 2. If it dries with a defined curl or loop pattern, it’s probably type 3, while tight curls, spirals, or zig-zag patterns are considered type 4.
2. Hair Structure
Hair structure refers to the thickness an individual strand which can affect how well your hair will hold certain styles and react to certain products. In general, hair falls into three categories: fine, medium, and coarse (or thick). Take a single strand of your hair. Next, cut a piece of sewing thread and place it next to your strand of hair. If your hair appears thinner than the thread, your hair is fine; if it seems thicker, it’s likely coarse; and anything in between is medium.
3. Hair Porosity
Porosity refers to hair’s ability to absorb moisture and product. The higher the porosity, the more moisture and product it can absorb. Knowing how porous your hair is key in determining what kind of products you should put on your hair. Take a single strand of hair and put it into a bowl of water. If the strand sinks to the bottom, it has high porosity, which means it’s absorbing all the moisture. If the strand remains below the surface but floats above the bottom of the bowl, your hair is well-balanced and has medium porosity. If the strand of hair floats above the surface, your hair has low porosity, which means it doesn’t absorb moisture easily.
Hair with high porosity typically absorbs moisture too quickly because of gaps or tears around the cuticle which can cause it to release moisture at a high rate and make it dry and brittle. It’s also more prone to damage as it can readily absorb chemicals from products. When you have highly porous hair, there’s no such thing as too much hydration. For these hair types, it’s best to avoid heat styling and harsh chemical treatments that can further dry out your hair, so look for hair masks, oils, and leave-in treatments that provide extra moisture and help seal the cuticle to prevent future damage.
Medium porosity hair takes in the correct amount of moisture which also means it’s less prone to damage. It also doesn’t require a lot of maintenance.
Low porosity hair types are those where the cuticle lays flat and blocks water or moisture from being absorbed; here, the biggest concern is typically product buildup, which is why it’s recommended you apply products while your hair is still damp to help ensure they’re more easily absorbed. It also means your hair takes a long time to dry: because this type of hair’s cuticles have fewer pores, this minimize its capacity to absorb water which remain on the surface of the cuticle. Products used often settle on top of the hair rather than sinking in.
4. Scalp Moisture
If your scalp isn’t in good shape, your strands won’t be either. To determine how oily or not your scalp is, look at your hair and scalp the second day after you’ve washed it. If your roots appear flat and greasy, you’re most likely dealing with an oily scalp. If you experience flaking, however, chances are your scalp is dry and in need of a more gentle, hydrating shampoo. But what if your scalp is both oily and flaky? This is typically due to a buildup of hair styling product and oil due to infrequent or improper washing.
5. Hair Density
Your hair density pertains to the number of individual strands you have on your scalp. Hair density differs from hair diameter. You can have thin hair with more density, and thick hair with low density. There are three levels of hair density.
Stand in front of your mirror and grab a big section of your hair and pull it aside. How well you can see your scalp determines your hair density.
Thin Density: If you can easily see your scalp, you have thin hair density.
Medium Density: If you can see your scalp partially from underneath your hair, you have medium hair density.
Thick Density: If you can hardly see your scalp, you have thick hair density.
6. Hair Greasiness
How much you need to wash your hair depends on how greasy it is. How can you tell? Wash your hair really well before going to bed, allowing it to air dry. When you wake up, do a patch test of your scalp: press a tissue against your scalp, especially near the crown of and behind your ears. If there is a heavily greasy patch on the tissue, you have greasy hair and scalp which means you should wash your hair 4 to 5 times a week.
Normal Hair: If there is very light amount of oil, you have a normal scalp. Wash your hair 1 - 2 times a week.
Dry Hair: If there is no oil on the tissue, this indicates a lack of hydration, so it’s best to use products that add and retain moisture in your hair.
Combination Hair: If there is oil on the tissue from only specific areas of your scalp, this indicates combination hair. Note that the hair behind your ears and over your temples tend to secrete a high amount of oil.
7. Hair Elasticity
Hair elasticity is the extent to which a single hair strand can stretch before returning to its normal state. Elasticity is a strong indicator of hair health; hair that has high elasticity has a good amount of shine and bounce and is regarded as the strongest of all hair types. To determine the elasticity of your hair, pluck a wet hair strand and stretch it as much as you can.
High Elasticity: Your hair is highly elastic if it stretches a long way without breaking immediately. When wet, hair with high elasticity can stretch up to 50% of its original length before breaking. Coarse hair tends to be highly elastic.
Medium Elasticity: If your hair stretches to some before breaking, this indicates medium elasticity. Strengthen your hair using natural hair masks and hair oils.
Low Elasticity: Hair with low elasticity snaps almost immediately after stretching. This hair type tends to be limp and brittle. Stay away from harsh chemicals which can diminish hair elasticity and instead choose shampoos that strengthen your hair cuticles.
8. Curl Pattern
There are four types of hair patterns decided by the tilt of the hair follicle and the way it grows into your scalp.
Type 1: Straight Hair
Type 1 hair typically lies flat from the roots to the tips with zero curls. Texture-wise, it is soft and silky and very shiny. There is also a high amount of oil secretion.
Type 2: Wavy Hair
Wavy hair falls somewhere between straight and cults - you can observe a slight curl pattern at the lower end of your hair. Its diameter is thick. Type 2 is divided into three sub-types:
2A - thin wavy hair
2B - medium wavy hair
2C - thick wavy hair
Type 3: Curly Hair
The best way to determine if you have curly hair is to see if an individual hair strand has an ’S’ pattern to it. This hair type has higher density compared to wavy and straight hair, is more prone to frizz, and can get tangled quickly. Type 3 is divided into three sub-types:
3A - loose curls
3B - medium curls
3C - tight curls
Type 4: Kinky Hair
Kinky hair is fragile and soft with high density with extremely tight curls.. It is easily prone to breakage and damage if not cared for and its curls resemble a ‘Z’ shape unlike the ’S’ in type 3. Type 4 is divided into three sub-types:
Type 4A - soft
Type 4B - wiry
Type 4C - extremely wiry